Post by animal on Apr 29, 2007 19:09:16 GMT 1
Young Panther Chameleons like warm, humid and bright conditions. It is recommended that you put your Panther in a small (less than 2 foot cube) vivarrium/cage until it’s at least 3 inches in body length. This allows the baby to easily find food and feel secure as well as giving you better control over its environment.
Vivarrium/Cage set up
Put in a quiet position, out of direct sunlight, away from draughts and off the floor.
Ventilation
Baby Panthers can dry out easily. Minimum ventilation is better for the first few months. Faeces must be removed regularly as poor ventilation and high humidity will encourage bacterial growth. It’s suggested you set your enclosure up so that it’s very easy to clean. Planting/landscaping is better done when the Chameleon is older. Dirty conditions are the number 1 killer of baby Chameleons.
Mesh caging
Mesh caging is generally recommended for Chameleons however in our climate they must be set up properly. Whilst ventilation is excellent, humidity is hard to maintain and therefore live plants are a must. Several horizontal criss-crossing branches will provide additional climbing surfaces. The UV light should be positioned outside and on the top of the cage. As mesh blocks out UV light a reflector should be used. This can be a shop bought one however a layer of tinfoil over the light as shown above works well. When using mesh cages the chameleon may climb and hang from the mesh. Make sure the temperature at the mesh under the basking bulb is not hot enough for the chameleon to burn its –self if it should hang underneath the bulb (max 90F – 32C). This type of caging can be easily placed outside on warm days to allow the chameleon to bask in beneficial natural sunlight; however the danger of overheating is a very real one.
Plants
To maintain humidity (particularly in screen cages) the use of live plants is encouraged. They also double up as drinking platforms and hides. Ideally the plants should be shorter than the enclosure so the chameleon can not touch the lights. Note: fertiliser, leaf shine etc can kill baby chameleons if they ingest enough of it. Preparation of live plants, all plants should be washed with warm soapy water. Where fertilizer is likely to have been used it is suggested the soil be replaced with sterile unfertilized soil. To prevent ingestion of soil by the chameleon, cover the surface of the pot with plastic mesh.
China Doll – Radermachia sinica
Umbrella Plant – Schefflera arboricola
Weeping Fig – Ficus benjamina
China Rose - hibiscus
Pothos – Epipremnum aureum
Water
Mist your chameleon enclosure several times a day with WARM water. How often largely depends on the caging and humidity of the room you keep them in but aim to start with 5 times a day and increase if necessary. The aim should be for the perching to dry out between misting, try not to spray the baby directly, just the leaves to allow it to drink. Water should not be allowed to form puddles on the floor. This can drown your chameleon if he/she is very small as well as encourage bacterial growth. Treat ALL water used with Reptisafe. This will remove chlorine/chloramine and other harmful additives from the water and prevent eye problems which untreated water can cause. Do not use artificially softened water. This is usually too high in salts for Chameleons. Hard water (or bottled water with added calcium) may help get additional calcium into the baby chameleon according to some studies.
Light and UV requirements
The light should be no closer than 5 inches from the closest point the chameleon can sit. If the light has to travel through mesh to reach the chameleon, either a reflector should be used or the light can be moved closer. In no event should the light be closer than 3 inches from the chameleon. UV Light should be treated the same as providing heat. A gradient should always be offered. Lights should be on for between 12 and 14 hours a day. The output of a strip light reduces with age. It’s recommended you change your light every 9-12.
Temperature
Daytime background temp of around 80F (27C) is ideal. Too much heat (above 85F – 29C) can quickly overcome your young chameleon if frequent hydration is not offered. Halogen desk lamps or normal 40w household bulbs on a dimmer thermostat work well. Chameleons like to bask side on. Where possible angle the heat light towards a branch so he/she can bask comfortably. The basking temp should be about 85 F 29C). The Chameleon should not be allowed to come in contact with any bulbs as they can cause burns. Night time – in the average house no night-time heating is required. The temperature at night should drop compared to the day temp but should not be allowed to drop below about 60F – 16C (70F – 21C) is better for growing babies). If there is a danger of this, additional night-time heating must be provided. A heat mat (with thermostat) attached to one side of the enclosure can be used to create gentle warmth at night. Chameleons can see coloured lights so Red and Blue lights often recommended for night viewing/heating are best avoided. Ceramics should not be used for chameleons. Chameleons associate light with heat. Make sure the heat light is close to the UV light so when basking the chameleon reaches the temperature it desires as well as being exposed to UV light.
Feeding
Correct feeding is a vital part of chameleon keeping. Think of commercially produced insects as hollow. It’s what you fill them with (gut load) which make "nutritious" food. Fruit Flies are readily taken and more easily digested by baby chameleons for the first month or so. - Try putting a piece of banana (or other fruit) sprinkled with the dust mix shown under supplements near your Panthers favourite perch. The fruit flies will feed off this increasing their nutritional value. It will also create a feeding platform near the chameleon making finding food easy. When the flies are eaten, the tongue picks up some of the dust. We find this method easier than trying to dust the fruit fly. Make sure the fruit is replaced daily. Crickets are generally the staple diet of most captive chameleons but need to be properly gut loaded. Suggested gut load: – a source of vitamin A - carrot, sweet potato, yellow and orange sweet peppers and greens - spring greens, dandelion leaves, water cress or rocket Try varying the gut loading (i.e. carrot and watercress one day, yellow pepper and spring greens another day) as this not only ensures a more varied diet but as the food tastes different depending on the gut load it makes it more interesting to the chameleon. Tropical fish food flakes and milk powder can also be used as additional gut load (recommended) to provide an additional source of nutrition. Bee Pollen (available over the Internet or at health food shops) can be used as either a gut load or dusted over all food items and is possibly the best supplement you can obtain for your chameleon. Mealworm should be gut loaded with commercial mealworm food at least 48 hours prior to feeding to the chameleon. Small locusts (hoppers) - These are especially good as they climb the plants and normally end up near the chameleon. Feed on grass or spring greens. Flies – Curly wings for small hatchlings (2 months plus). In addition you can try: Silkworm (very good but hard to get) Wax worms (high in fat so not too many or too often and always dust with calcium powder and can only be gut loaded with bee pollen) baby thingyroaches (excellent food which will eat any of the above gut load) praying mantis nymphs. Wild caught insects such as grass hoppers, woodlice, moths and daddy longlegs etc are all good naturally nutritious food. Do not feed insects from areas where pesticides could have been used.
Vivarrium/Cage set up
Put in a quiet position, out of direct sunlight, away from draughts and off the floor.
Ventilation
Baby Panthers can dry out easily. Minimum ventilation is better for the first few months. Faeces must be removed regularly as poor ventilation and high humidity will encourage bacterial growth. It’s suggested you set your enclosure up so that it’s very easy to clean. Planting/landscaping is better done when the Chameleon is older. Dirty conditions are the number 1 killer of baby Chameleons.
Mesh caging
Mesh caging is generally recommended for Chameleons however in our climate they must be set up properly. Whilst ventilation is excellent, humidity is hard to maintain and therefore live plants are a must. Several horizontal criss-crossing branches will provide additional climbing surfaces. The UV light should be positioned outside and on the top of the cage. As mesh blocks out UV light a reflector should be used. This can be a shop bought one however a layer of tinfoil over the light as shown above works well. When using mesh cages the chameleon may climb and hang from the mesh. Make sure the temperature at the mesh under the basking bulb is not hot enough for the chameleon to burn its –self if it should hang underneath the bulb (max 90F – 32C). This type of caging can be easily placed outside on warm days to allow the chameleon to bask in beneficial natural sunlight; however the danger of overheating is a very real one.
Plants
To maintain humidity (particularly in screen cages) the use of live plants is encouraged. They also double up as drinking platforms and hides. Ideally the plants should be shorter than the enclosure so the chameleon can not touch the lights. Note: fertiliser, leaf shine etc can kill baby chameleons if they ingest enough of it. Preparation of live plants, all plants should be washed with warm soapy water. Where fertilizer is likely to have been used it is suggested the soil be replaced with sterile unfertilized soil. To prevent ingestion of soil by the chameleon, cover the surface of the pot with plastic mesh.
China Doll – Radermachia sinica
Umbrella Plant – Schefflera arboricola
Weeping Fig – Ficus benjamina
China Rose - hibiscus
Pothos – Epipremnum aureum
Water
Mist your chameleon enclosure several times a day with WARM water. How often largely depends on the caging and humidity of the room you keep them in but aim to start with 5 times a day and increase if necessary. The aim should be for the perching to dry out between misting, try not to spray the baby directly, just the leaves to allow it to drink. Water should not be allowed to form puddles on the floor. This can drown your chameleon if he/she is very small as well as encourage bacterial growth. Treat ALL water used with Reptisafe. This will remove chlorine/chloramine and other harmful additives from the water and prevent eye problems which untreated water can cause. Do not use artificially softened water. This is usually too high in salts for Chameleons. Hard water (or bottled water with added calcium) may help get additional calcium into the baby chameleon according to some studies.
Light and UV requirements
The light should be no closer than 5 inches from the closest point the chameleon can sit. If the light has to travel through mesh to reach the chameleon, either a reflector should be used or the light can be moved closer. In no event should the light be closer than 3 inches from the chameleon. UV Light should be treated the same as providing heat. A gradient should always be offered. Lights should be on for between 12 and 14 hours a day. The output of a strip light reduces with age. It’s recommended you change your light every 9-12.
Temperature
Daytime background temp of around 80F (27C) is ideal. Too much heat (above 85F – 29C) can quickly overcome your young chameleon if frequent hydration is not offered. Halogen desk lamps or normal 40w household bulbs on a dimmer thermostat work well. Chameleons like to bask side on. Where possible angle the heat light towards a branch so he/she can bask comfortably. The basking temp should be about 85 F 29C). The Chameleon should not be allowed to come in contact with any bulbs as they can cause burns. Night time – in the average house no night-time heating is required. The temperature at night should drop compared to the day temp but should not be allowed to drop below about 60F – 16C (70F – 21C) is better for growing babies). If there is a danger of this, additional night-time heating must be provided. A heat mat (with thermostat) attached to one side of the enclosure can be used to create gentle warmth at night. Chameleons can see coloured lights so Red and Blue lights often recommended for night viewing/heating are best avoided. Ceramics should not be used for chameleons. Chameleons associate light with heat. Make sure the heat light is close to the UV light so when basking the chameleon reaches the temperature it desires as well as being exposed to UV light.
Feeding
Correct feeding is a vital part of chameleon keeping. Think of commercially produced insects as hollow. It’s what you fill them with (gut load) which make "nutritious" food. Fruit Flies are readily taken and more easily digested by baby chameleons for the first month or so. - Try putting a piece of banana (or other fruit) sprinkled with the dust mix shown under supplements near your Panthers favourite perch. The fruit flies will feed off this increasing their nutritional value. It will also create a feeding platform near the chameleon making finding food easy. When the flies are eaten, the tongue picks up some of the dust. We find this method easier than trying to dust the fruit fly. Make sure the fruit is replaced daily. Crickets are generally the staple diet of most captive chameleons but need to be properly gut loaded. Suggested gut load: – a source of vitamin A - carrot, sweet potato, yellow and orange sweet peppers and greens - spring greens, dandelion leaves, water cress or rocket Try varying the gut loading (i.e. carrot and watercress one day, yellow pepper and spring greens another day) as this not only ensures a more varied diet but as the food tastes different depending on the gut load it makes it more interesting to the chameleon. Tropical fish food flakes and milk powder can also be used as additional gut load (recommended) to provide an additional source of nutrition. Bee Pollen (available over the Internet or at health food shops) can be used as either a gut load or dusted over all food items and is possibly the best supplement you can obtain for your chameleon. Mealworm should be gut loaded with commercial mealworm food at least 48 hours prior to feeding to the chameleon. Small locusts (hoppers) - These are especially good as they climb the plants and normally end up near the chameleon. Feed on grass or spring greens. Flies – Curly wings for small hatchlings (2 months plus). In addition you can try: Silkworm (very good but hard to get) Wax worms (high in fat so not too many or too often and always dust with calcium powder and can only be gut loaded with bee pollen) baby thingyroaches (excellent food which will eat any of the above gut load) praying mantis nymphs. Wild caught insects such as grass hoppers, woodlice, moths and daddy longlegs etc are all good naturally nutritious food. Do not feed insects from areas where pesticides could have been used.