Post by Paul on Apr 28, 2007 21:16:54 GMT 1
Description
Frog eye geckos (Teratoscincus sp.) are native to fairly hot, arid climates within Southern Asia. Handling of this species must be minimized because their skin is very delicate. They can easily loose sections of skin if they are not handled properly. Males can be recognized by the hemipenal bulges at the base of the tail and the darker color of the scales between the hind legs.
Housing
If you plan to breed these geckos then a terrarium measuring 18" x 12" should be enouth to accomodate a pair or trio.
Substrate
These geckos require approx 8-14" of sand. The bottom layers should be kept very moist. This is so they can burrow and nest.
Environment
For a naturalistic environment, rocks, wood and plants can all be used. Frog eye geckos like to burrow, and will not hesitate to try and burrow underneath a rock. Make sure these objects are placed directly on the bottom of the enclosure and not on top of the sand, as this will collapse if the gecko decides to burrow under.
Temperature and Lighting
Frog eye geckos are a nocturnal species so UV light is really not required unless you want to give them the extra vitamin D3, if you do use it then place the UV on a timer for 12 hours recreating daylight hours. A basking light with a dark colour (red or blue) is a good choice in order to create a hot spot. Background heat can be added with a small heat mat. This should be placed on the back wall of the vivarium and placed in the centre. Depending on how low the temperature drops at night, will depend on the size of heat you require. A 6”x11” HabiStat heat mat should be enough just to bump the temperature up a few degrees.
Water
Water should be easily accessible to your gecko. Be sure to provide it in a non-spillable yet shallow container. Always change it as soon as you spot substrate or faeces in there.
Food
Frog eye geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects. Hatchling or juvenile frog eye geckos should be fed on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 10 small crickets or similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts, and should be no larger than the width of the gecko’s mouth. Wax worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. A Calcium supplement should be dusted onto the food every other day. This is to aid in growing a healthy, strong bone structure, particularly in the leg and jaw areas.
Adults can be fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8 insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects, approximately the size of the leopard gecko head. It is important the food is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow. For females in breeding season, calcium supplements should be added to food on every feeding, to aid in the development of the eggs. For males and females out of breeding season, a dusting of supplements once a week will suffice.
Brumation
Frog eyed geckos should be cooled for approx 5-8 weeks in winter; daytime high - 60-65F (15-18C) and nighttime low - 50-60F (10-15C).They will not eat during this period; do not let the sand dry out during the brumation period, and make sure you still provide them with water.
Breeding
Frog-Eyed Geckos may be difficult to breed. Generally "spring", or days with longer light and ambient temperatures, is the typical breeding season. During this time, you should supplement your female Frog-Eyed Geckos with extra vitamins and calcium. Generally, four clutches of eggs may be laid per year, and each clutch will consist of two calceous, hard-shelled eggs.
Eggs and Incubation
Frog-Eyed Gecko eggs must be incubated in dry, warm areas. The eggs require relatively low humidity - 40-55% (higher can kill the embryo). Incubation temperatures should be around: 80-90F (25-30C). If done properly the eggs will hatch after about three months
Frog eye geckos (Teratoscincus sp.) are native to fairly hot, arid climates within Southern Asia. Handling of this species must be minimized because their skin is very delicate. They can easily loose sections of skin if they are not handled properly. Males can be recognized by the hemipenal bulges at the base of the tail and the darker color of the scales between the hind legs.
Housing
If you plan to breed these geckos then a terrarium measuring 18" x 12" should be enouth to accomodate a pair or trio.
Substrate
These geckos require approx 8-14" of sand. The bottom layers should be kept very moist. This is so they can burrow and nest.
Environment
For a naturalistic environment, rocks, wood and plants can all be used. Frog eye geckos like to burrow, and will not hesitate to try and burrow underneath a rock. Make sure these objects are placed directly on the bottom of the enclosure and not on top of the sand, as this will collapse if the gecko decides to burrow under.
Temperature and Lighting
Frog eye geckos are a nocturnal species so UV light is really not required unless you want to give them the extra vitamin D3, if you do use it then place the UV on a timer for 12 hours recreating daylight hours. A basking light with a dark colour (red or blue) is a good choice in order to create a hot spot. Background heat can be added with a small heat mat. This should be placed on the back wall of the vivarium and placed in the centre. Depending on how low the temperature drops at night, will depend on the size of heat you require. A 6”x11” HabiStat heat mat should be enough just to bump the temperature up a few degrees.
Water
Water should be easily accessible to your gecko. Be sure to provide it in a non-spillable yet shallow container. Always change it as soon as you spot substrate or faeces in there.
Food
Frog eye geckos are primarily insectivorous, feeding on insects. Hatchling or juvenile frog eye geckos should be fed on a daily basis. They will eat up to around 10 small crickets or similar insects. These insects should be either crickets or locusts, and should be no larger than the width of the gecko’s mouth. Wax worms can be offered in small quantities once a week, and mealworms can also be offered in small quantities twice a week. A Calcium supplement should be dusted onto the food every other day. This is to aid in growing a healthy, strong bone structure, particularly in the leg and jaw areas.
Adults can be fed less regularly, 2 or 3 times a week. They should eat around 8 insects at a time, but obviously these should be larger insects, approximately the size of the leopard gecko head. It is important the food is not too small for the gecko not to be interested, and also important for it not to be too big for it to become hard to swallow. For females in breeding season, calcium supplements should be added to food on every feeding, to aid in the development of the eggs. For males and females out of breeding season, a dusting of supplements once a week will suffice.
Brumation
Frog eyed geckos should be cooled for approx 5-8 weeks in winter; daytime high - 60-65F (15-18C) and nighttime low - 50-60F (10-15C).They will not eat during this period; do not let the sand dry out during the brumation period, and make sure you still provide them with water.
Breeding
Frog-Eyed Geckos may be difficult to breed. Generally "spring", or days with longer light and ambient temperatures, is the typical breeding season. During this time, you should supplement your female Frog-Eyed Geckos with extra vitamins and calcium. Generally, four clutches of eggs may be laid per year, and each clutch will consist of two calceous, hard-shelled eggs.
Eggs and Incubation
Frog-Eyed Gecko eggs must be incubated in dry, warm areas. The eggs require relatively low humidity - 40-55% (higher can kill the embryo). Incubation temperatures should be around: 80-90F (25-30C). If done properly the eggs will hatch after about three months