Post by chris on Mar 18, 2007 23:49:16 GMT 1
Bearded dragons (pogona vitticeps) are an ideal lizard for both the beginner and more experienced herpetologist alike. They are a suitable starter herp due to their basic needs and gentle disposition.
Housing.
The best sort of an enclosure is a wooden one with ventalation at the back, and sliding glass doors. Within the first year the dragon will grow to almost its full length, so while a 10 gallon aquarium may be suitable for a new hatchling, within 6 months or less the animal will require an enclosure 24 inches long (e.g., a 20 gallon long aquarium). As adults, a 50 gal tank (or larger) is preferable, especially if two or more animals are to be housed together. As adults bearded dragons love to climb branches and bask, be sure if several animals are housed in one large enclosure to provide multiple basking sites. They also benefit from having hiding spots. Females especially appreciate having a safe place to escape from the male's attentions during breeding season.
Heating.
To produce heat and a basking spot in your enclosure you can use either a ceramic heat emitter, a reptile basking light(red, blue or white) or just a plain old household lightbulb. The best fixture for any of these choices is a porcelain dome light fixture. This type of fixture is a must with a ceramic heat emitter due to the amount of heat they produce. The temperature for this basking spot you created should be around 110f for juveniles and can be around 95f for adults.
The cool side of the enclosure should be around 85f during the day. Once again within a few degrees of this temp is just fine.
Night time temperatures can fall as low as 65f. If you can't keep your temps above this you may want to consider buying an under tank heater (UTH) for night time use. Using this just during the evening hours will help create a warm spot for your Dragon to sleep. DO NOT use heat rocks as these can cause serious burns on your animals underside.
A thermometer on the "hot side" and one on the "cool side" will make sure that your temps are in the range they should be in.
Substrate.
The substrate debate has been going on for ages. For babies and juveniles, I personally recommened either kitchen roll, or newspaper, (please make sure the ink is non-toxic.) When your beardie reaches adulthood, you may wish to change the substrate to something that is more aesthetically pleasing, such as washed playsand. DO NOT USE CRUSHED WALNUT SHELL, BARK, WOOD SHAVINGS, CORN COB, OR ANY OTHER LARGE PARTICLE BASED SUBSTRATE.
Lighting.
Bearded Dragons require UV light. Without it, Problems such as metabolic bone disease can develop. One of the best UV tubes available is the reptisun 5.0. Your Beardie must be able to get within 6-12 inches of the UV tube to get the full benefit.
Diet.
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous. This means they require a diet of both insects and vegetables.
Suitable staple insects include crickets, locusts, and silkworms. You can offer waxworms as a treat, but are far too fattening to be used as a staple food.
Do not forget to add suppliments to your insects. Add a good quality vitamin powder such as nutrobal to one feed each day for babies, and 2-3 times a week as adults.
It is a good idea to gut-load your feeder insects. Either use one of the commercially available gut-loaders, or put your crickets in a cricket keeper, and give them veg, fruit, dried milk powder, cereal etc.
PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE INSECTS YOU FEED YOUR BEARDIE ARE APPROPRIATELY SIZED . THEY SHOULD BE NO BIGGER THAN THE SPACE BETWEEN YOUR BEARDIES EYES. FEEDING ITEMS TOO LARGE CAN CAUSE IMPACTION OR HIND LEG PARALYSIS.
Bearded Dragons require vegetables, and there is a wide variety for you to choose to feed your dragon. Staple greens include dandelion greens, collard greens, water cress, endive, escarole etc. You can occasionally feed your Beardie vegetables such as carrot, cucumber, sweet potato, butternut squash and peas. Certain fruits may also be fed to your dragon. Mango, apple, banana, raspberrys, strawberrys and blackberrys.
PLEASE AVOID SPINACH, AVOCADO, LETTUCE AND RHUBARB. (THEY ARE HIGH IN OXALIC ACID, WHICH IS TOXIC TO BEARDIES.)
Water.
Fresh water should always be available in a shallow bowl. Most Beardies do not drink from a water bowl, but they must be given the option too. Babies should be misted 2-3 times a day.
Your Beardies should be bathed at least once a week. Do not use water too hot though. 90-100f is about the right temperature.
This is only a basic care sheet. Please refer to other care sheets as well as this one.
Housing.
The best sort of an enclosure is a wooden one with ventalation at the back, and sliding glass doors. Within the first year the dragon will grow to almost its full length, so while a 10 gallon aquarium may be suitable for a new hatchling, within 6 months or less the animal will require an enclosure 24 inches long (e.g., a 20 gallon long aquarium). As adults, a 50 gal tank (or larger) is preferable, especially if two or more animals are to be housed together. As adults bearded dragons love to climb branches and bask, be sure if several animals are housed in one large enclosure to provide multiple basking sites. They also benefit from having hiding spots. Females especially appreciate having a safe place to escape from the male's attentions during breeding season.
Heating.
To produce heat and a basking spot in your enclosure you can use either a ceramic heat emitter, a reptile basking light(red, blue or white) or just a plain old household lightbulb. The best fixture for any of these choices is a porcelain dome light fixture. This type of fixture is a must with a ceramic heat emitter due to the amount of heat they produce. The temperature for this basking spot you created should be around 110f for juveniles and can be around 95f for adults.
The cool side of the enclosure should be around 85f during the day. Once again within a few degrees of this temp is just fine.
Night time temperatures can fall as low as 65f. If you can't keep your temps above this you may want to consider buying an under tank heater (UTH) for night time use. Using this just during the evening hours will help create a warm spot for your Dragon to sleep. DO NOT use heat rocks as these can cause serious burns on your animals underside.
A thermometer on the "hot side" and one on the "cool side" will make sure that your temps are in the range they should be in.
Substrate.
The substrate debate has been going on for ages. For babies and juveniles, I personally recommened either kitchen roll, or newspaper, (please make sure the ink is non-toxic.) When your beardie reaches adulthood, you may wish to change the substrate to something that is more aesthetically pleasing, such as washed playsand. DO NOT USE CRUSHED WALNUT SHELL, BARK, WOOD SHAVINGS, CORN COB, OR ANY OTHER LARGE PARTICLE BASED SUBSTRATE.
Lighting.
Bearded Dragons require UV light. Without it, Problems such as metabolic bone disease can develop. One of the best UV tubes available is the reptisun 5.0. Your Beardie must be able to get within 6-12 inches of the UV tube to get the full benefit.
Diet.
Bearded Dragons are omnivorous. This means they require a diet of both insects and vegetables.
Suitable staple insects include crickets, locusts, and silkworms. You can offer waxworms as a treat, but are far too fattening to be used as a staple food.
Do not forget to add suppliments to your insects. Add a good quality vitamin powder such as nutrobal to one feed each day for babies, and 2-3 times a week as adults.
It is a good idea to gut-load your feeder insects. Either use one of the commercially available gut-loaders, or put your crickets in a cricket keeper, and give them veg, fruit, dried milk powder, cereal etc.
PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THE INSECTS YOU FEED YOUR BEARDIE ARE APPROPRIATELY SIZED . THEY SHOULD BE NO BIGGER THAN THE SPACE BETWEEN YOUR BEARDIES EYES. FEEDING ITEMS TOO LARGE CAN CAUSE IMPACTION OR HIND LEG PARALYSIS.
Bearded Dragons require vegetables, and there is a wide variety for you to choose to feed your dragon. Staple greens include dandelion greens, collard greens, water cress, endive, escarole etc. You can occasionally feed your Beardie vegetables such as carrot, cucumber, sweet potato, butternut squash and peas. Certain fruits may also be fed to your dragon. Mango, apple, banana, raspberrys, strawberrys and blackberrys.
PLEASE AVOID SPINACH, AVOCADO, LETTUCE AND RHUBARB. (THEY ARE HIGH IN OXALIC ACID, WHICH IS TOXIC TO BEARDIES.)
Water.
Fresh water should always be available in a shallow bowl. Most Beardies do not drink from a water bowl, but they must be given the option too. Babies should be misted 2-3 times a day.
Your Beardies should be bathed at least once a week. Do not use water too hot though. 90-100f is about the right temperature.
This is only a basic care sheet. Please refer to other care sheets as well as this one.