Post by Paul on Mar 13, 2007 13:21:49 GMT 1
Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius)
About
The leopard gecko is a ground dwelling species found in the far east in such places as Pakistan and Afghanistan. It is recognised by
its yellow hue covered in black/brown spots and its' very plump tail.
As a juvenile, the leopard gecko is often mistaken for other species of gecko for it is not born with spots but it has saddles. As the gecko grows the saddle breaks apart into spots.
Lifespan and Size
A gecko can easily live up to 20 years and reaching sexual maturity at approx 6-8 months. In this time a gecko can reach up to 8 - 10 inches long and weigh anything up to 80g + .
When Choosing
When you choose your first gecko be on the look out for these key pointers:-
Housing
Geckos do not require too much room which is one of the things that makes them great pets. To house a pair or trio of leopard geckos it is advisory to have a cage that is approx 2 feet in width, 2 feet in depth and 18 inches high. Some people expand on this and place them in cages up to 3 feet wide. We here at Glacial Reptiles keep our geckos seperately in Exo Terras flat faunariums that measure 18 inches wide, 12 inches deep and 18 cms High. In these we can easily fit in everything they require.
Substrate
A lot of people like to keep their geckos on sand. This is ok but there is a risk of impaction , which is where the gecko swallows too much sand and blocks its' internal organs. The best substrate to keep a gecko on without the risk of impaction is kitchen roll. It is cheap and also very easy to clean.
Lighting
In all honesty because geckos are nocturnal we believe they do not need any kind of lighting. Heating is all that they require.
Heating
To gain a decent heat gradient it is best to place a heat mat underneath to create a hot end of the tank. The temperature here should be around 86-88 degrees where the cool end should be about room temperature (70 degrees).
Extras
Geckos need to be able to have access to fresh water regularly. This should be provided in a shallow dish. Calcium is a need of theirs as well. This can be provided in a small dish so the gecko can provide itself with a general intake when it needs it.
Hides and Moist boxes are needed as these are where your gecko will spend most of its' time. The hides can be bought from any local pet stores or made from plant pots, cork bark or coconut shell.
Moist hides are fairly easy to make. All you need is a large tub, cut a large enough hole in the side or top of. Then fill with moss, eco earth or kitchen roll. Make sure this is moistured regularly.
Feeding
A good stable diet for leopard geckos is crickets. But to add variety you can add mealworms and waxworms (keeping in mind wax worms are high in fat and should be given as treats). Food should not be any bigger than the geckos' head.
ALWAYS! dust your geckos' food with calcium supplement. This can be done by adding the crickets to a sandwich bag and adding a pinch or two of calcium. Shake the bag thoroughly. Nutrobal is a good supplement and is highly reccomended by most reptile keepers.
Amount :- Babies will eat anything from 5-10 crickets at a time where as an adult can consume up to 20 crickets in a feeding. Be sure to feed only the amount the gecko can eat.
Handling
Geckos are very fragile animals and should be handled very carefully. Never handle them by the tail as they will drop it in defence. They will grow back but they do not look as attractive as the original.
Best place to handle a gecko is sitting down so if you drop the gecko by accident they do not fall too far and injure themselves.
Cleaning
Geckos should be cleaned out regularly. Any debris or dead crickets must be removed from the tank daily.
Health
Geckos are generally a hardy species. But like most animals they are susceptible to problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease), Mouth Rot (which is rare in geckos) and worst of all....Parasites.
You should give your geckos a regular look over to notice any problems.
Here are a few things to look out for:-
MBD Symptoms - MBD may manifest itself in many ways. Most often, the first symptom to appear is thin, easily broken bones. Many owners do not realize that their gecko has MBD until it breaks a bone doing something that a healthy gecko would have no trouble with. As bones weaken, the body will attempt to strengthen them by laying down fibrous connective tissue at the points of strain. This will often result in swollen, “popeye” legs. The legs may feel bumpy to the touch. They may become bowed as the weak bones bend under the pressure of the muscles pulling on them. Breaks may result in twisted and crooked backs, toes and limbs. Spinal cord injuries from such breaks may result in permanent paralysis.
Mouth Rot Symptoms - Mouth rot is a bacterial infection that can affect both the mouth and gums of a leopard gecko. Symptoms include bleeding gums, loss of appetite, blackening of the teeth, swollen mouth, and a cheesy, yellowish buildup between the teeth. This disease almost never occurs in healthy geckos, as it is generally brought on by dirty living conditions and low temperatures. It is extremely painful for the reptile and can prove fatal if not treated by a veterinarian as quickly as possible. To prevent mouth rot, maintain a clean terrarium and be sure your pet is getting an appropriate level of heat.
Parasites - Leopard geckos can be affected by parasites, both internal and external. Symptoms of internal parasites include loss of appetite, bloating, vomiting, sudden weight loss, sluggish movements, and constipation. Internal parasites should be treated by a veterinarian, who will generally prescribe a regimen of oral or injected medication.
Mites are external parasites that often effect leopard geckos. They are tiny (a few millimeters in diameter) and difficult to spot. Mites will attach themselves to your pet, bore through his skin, and suck its blood. If many mites are present, they can work together and quickly drain a significant amount of blood, causing a lack of appetite in your gecko and a weakening of his immune system. Because of the severity of the consequences of mites, if you think your pet is infected you will need to act quickly.
The best option for this is to take your gecko to the vets who will prescribe you with a mite killer. Be sure to follow the treatments they recommend and follow it up by giving the cage a thorough clean out.
Shedding
Every so often you will notice your gecko go very pale in coloration, sometimes almost pure white. This is nothing to be alarmed about. It is just the gecko preparing to remove its old skin which has the new skin underneath ready to replace it.
The process begins when the gecko will begin rubbing against a rough surface (bark or a rock) in order to loosen the skin. It will then proceed to remove the skin with its teeth and eat these mouthfuls of skin. It will repeat this until it has removed everything.
This will provide the gecko with extra vitamins and minerals which will help form new skin in the future. It is also believed that by eating the old skin this helps prevent predators in the wild track the gecko down.
In order to help make this process go smoothly make sure that your gecko's moist hide is damp and not dried out. If failing to do this can result in shedding sticking to the gecko and causing some serious problems. One of the most common problems is the constriction of old shedding on the geckos toes which results in amputation of the tips.
About
The leopard gecko is a ground dwelling species found in the far east in such places as Pakistan and Afghanistan. It is recognised by
its yellow hue covered in black/brown spots and its' very plump tail.
As a juvenile, the leopard gecko is often mistaken for other species of gecko for it is not born with spots but it has saddles. As the gecko grows the saddle breaks apart into spots.
Lifespan and Size
A gecko can easily live up to 20 years and reaching sexual maturity at approx 6-8 months. In this time a gecko can reach up to 8 - 10 inches long and weigh anything up to 80g + .
When Choosing
When you choose your first gecko be on the look out for these key pointers:-
- should be alert when handled.
[8]tails should be full and plump (not dehydrated). - bodies should be reasonably plump (bones should not be visible).
- stomachs should be rounded/full, but not distended (unless it is a gravid female) or showing signs of internal bleeding/bruising.
- skin should appear healthy ("sweating", open sores, blisters, discoloured areas, signs of infection and dehydrated looking skin are indicative of a problem) and without mites and/or ticks.
- eyes should be bright and clear (there should be no swelling, discharge or dried residue).
- mouths should be firm and clean without discharge.
- noses should be clean, dry and without discharge.
- limbs/jaw should be firm (not flexible/bendy- this could be indicative of metabolic bone disease).
- toes should be without unshed skin, bleeding, swelling or signs of infection.
- vent area should be clean and without prolapsed organs.
- faeces should be solid, black/brown, with whitish urate (diarrhea/odd coloured stools indicate a problem).
Housing
Geckos do not require too much room which is one of the things that makes them great pets. To house a pair or trio of leopard geckos it is advisory to have a cage that is approx 2 feet in width, 2 feet in depth and 18 inches high. Some people expand on this and place them in cages up to 3 feet wide. We here at Glacial Reptiles keep our geckos seperately in Exo Terras flat faunariums that measure 18 inches wide, 12 inches deep and 18 cms High. In these we can easily fit in everything they require.
Substrate
A lot of people like to keep their geckos on sand. This is ok but there is a risk of impaction , which is where the gecko swallows too much sand and blocks its' internal organs. The best substrate to keep a gecko on without the risk of impaction is kitchen roll. It is cheap and also very easy to clean.
Lighting
In all honesty because geckos are nocturnal we believe they do not need any kind of lighting. Heating is all that they require.
Heating
To gain a decent heat gradient it is best to place a heat mat underneath to create a hot end of the tank. The temperature here should be around 86-88 degrees where the cool end should be about room temperature (70 degrees).
Extras
Geckos need to be able to have access to fresh water regularly. This should be provided in a shallow dish. Calcium is a need of theirs as well. This can be provided in a small dish so the gecko can provide itself with a general intake when it needs it.
Hides and Moist boxes are needed as these are where your gecko will spend most of its' time. The hides can be bought from any local pet stores or made from plant pots, cork bark or coconut shell.
Moist hides are fairly easy to make. All you need is a large tub, cut a large enough hole in the side or top of. Then fill with moss, eco earth or kitchen roll. Make sure this is moistured regularly.
Feeding
A good stable diet for leopard geckos is crickets. But to add variety you can add mealworms and waxworms (keeping in mind wax worms are high in fat and should be given as treats). Food should not be any bigger than the geckos' head.
ALWAYS! dust your geckos' food with calcium supplement. This can be done by adding the crickets to a sandwich bag and adding a pinch or two of calcium. Shake the bag thoroughly. Nutrobal is a good supplement and is highly reccomended by most reptile keepers.
Amount :- Babies will eat anything from 5-10 crickets at a time where as an adult can consume up to 20 crickets in a feeding. Be sure to feed only the amount the gecko can eat.
Handling
Geckos are very fragile animals and should be handled very carefully. Never handle them by the tail as they will drop it in defence. They will grow back but they do not look as attractive as the original.
Best place to handle a gecko is sitting down so if you drop the gecko by accident they do not fall too far and injure themselves.
Cleaning
Geckos should be cleaned out regularly. Any debris or dead crickets must be removed from the tank daily.
Health
Geckos are generally a hardy species. But like most animals they are susceptible to problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease), Mouth Rot (which is rare in geckos) and worst of all....Parasites.
You should give your geckos a regular look over to notice any problems.
Here are a few things to look out for:-
MBD Symptoms - MBD may manifest itself in many ways. Most often, the first symptom to appear is thin, easily broken bones. Many owners do not realize that their gecko has MBD until it breaks a bone doing something that a healthy gecko would have no trouble with. As bones weaken, the body will attempt to strengthen them by laying down fibrous connective tissue at the points of strain. This will often result in swollen, “popeye” legs. The legs may feel bumpy to the touch. They may become bowed as the weak bones bend under the pressure of the muscles pulling on them. Breaks may result in twisted and crooked backs, toes and limbs. Spinal cord injuries from such breaks may result in permanent paralysis.
Mouth Rot Symptoms - Mouth rot is a bacterial infection that can affect both the mouth and gums of a leopard gecko. Symptoms include bleeding gums, loss of appetite, blackening of the teeth, swollen mouth, and a cheesy, yellowish buildup between the teeth. This disease almost never occurs in healthy geckos, as it is generally brought on by dirty living conditions and low temperatures. It is extremely painful for the reptile and can prove fatal if not treated by a veterinarian as quickly as possible. To prevent mouth rot, maintain a clean terrarium and be sure your pet is getting an appropriate level of heat.
Parasites - Leopard geckos can be affected by parasites, both internal and external. Symptoms of internal parasites include loss of appetite, bloating, vomiting, sudden weight loss, sluggish movements, and constipation. Internal parasites should be treated by a veterinarian, who will generally prescribe a regimen of oral or injected medication.
Mites are external parasites that often effect leopard geckos. They are tiny (a few millimeters in diameter) and difficult to spot. Mites will attach themselves to your pet, bore through his skin, and suck its blood. If many mites are present, they can work together and quickly drain a significant amount of blood, causing a lack of appetite in your gecko and a weakening of his immune system. Because of the severity of the consequences of mites, if you think your pet is infected you will need to act quickly.
The best option for this is to take your gecko to the vets who will prescribe you with a mite killer. Be sure to follow the treatments they recommend and follow it up by giving the cage a thorough clean out.
Shedding
Every so often you will notice your gecko go very pale in coloration, sometimes almost pure white. This is nothing to be alarmed about. It is just the gecko preparing to remove its old skin which has the new skin underneath ready to replace it.
The process begins when the gecko will begin rubbing against a rough surface (bark or a rock) in order to loosen the skin. It will then proceed to remove the skin with its teeth and eat these mouthfuls of skin. It will repeat this until it has removed everything.
This will provide the gecko with extra vitamins and minerals which will help form new skin in the future. It is also believed that by eating the old skin this helps prevent predators in the wild track the gecko down.
In order to help make this process go smoothly make sure that your gecko's moist hide is damp and not dried out. If failing to do this can result in shedding sticking to the gecko and causing some serious problems. One of the most common problems is the constriction of old shedding on the geckos toes which results in amputation of the tips.
just wondered if you might want to add a little section on breeding to complete it?
